18: Year One in Namibia

So it's been a year since we arrived in Windhoek, Namibia for our tour. How does time move so quickly? I still feel like a tourist! [...] But we have settled into a rhythm and routine, and I have adjusted without realizing. So I thought it would be good to take a moment and write down all the things I've internalized about being here.

I'm learning to ritualize sunscreen, follow sun protection and embrace desert weather. It's dry all day. The sun is intense. It's nippy at night. Lotion up, bring a hat, have an evening jacket ready.

I keep a stack of 5 dollar coins in my purse for parking attendants. They wear these neon vests and sometimes they are hired by a shopping complex. More likely, they are self-appointed for that area. Other than as ceremonial security, they really don't offer much service. But I understand that there's a dearth of employment opportunities here, and these parking attendants are doing their best.

Sometimes their job is to point at the parking spot while I'm already pulling in. Other times they wave me permission while I'm already successfully backing out. Sometimes they do diddly-squat. I still pay them. I make sure to hunt out those 5 dollar coins like they are four-leaf clovers so I can have a stack at the ready when I inevitably need 'em.

I throw curtsies around after greetings or finished exchanges. When you enter a shop, a greetings is common and expected. (Heck, in Paris, we would be considered so rude for not throwing an all-purpose "Bonjour" to everyone inside while entering a shop.) But I think I got used to the direct Danish way (or maybe the very obviously American way) of using absolutely no formalities in an exchange.

So you can imagine my startled confusion the first time I shook a woman's hand in greeting and she bobbed into a curtsy! (More intrigued than confused and also somehow delighted.) I've learned since that people do this to shake hands but also to receive payment/tips. I thought it was strange but endearing. Now I throw them in all the time. After a friends introduction. At the end of a shopping exchange when I get the receipt. When I'm asking a question to a sales attendant. It's silly and fun and maybe that's why I like doing it!

Driving on the left side isn't so scary. When we arrived I had been spoiled for a decade with public transport. Metros and buses in Buenos Aires. Throw in some trains for Paris. And bikes in Copenhagen. So, dusting off my sleepy beach town driving skills to cruise on the left-hand side of the road was overwhelming.

Judging traffic felt wonky and wrong. Ignoring the honks from taxis (that's how they solicit riders, apparently) gave me anxiety. Checking mirrors was disorienting. Even perspective-decisions were tricky - why does it feel like I'm driving in the middle of the road! It didn't help that a car hit me in my first weeks driving. Yup, my very first accident. Even though it wasn't my fault, it still gives me sweaty palms every time I pass that traffic light.

But slowly, eventually, driving on the left side became more familiar. Trusting my left-side driving skills started to feel more natural. Navigating the city - with GPS on - felt a little better. Figuring out how to turn right at lights (there are very few right turn lights which means you have to just drive smack into the middle of the intersection and then wait for the traffic to finish on their red light to make that right turn) - became a little bit more manageable. [...] All the same, I'd trade the driving for a bike ride if I could.

Living a Windhoek life is small...but the wildlife payoff is big. I like to believe that I'm suited for a wide-range of spaces. After all, one can get used to anything. While Windhoek is a tiny capital, it's more like a town. There are less people, no public transport. Mail doesn't get in easily, the few existing shops/restaurants close early and often, the public library is dismal and you have to drive for hours before hitting another destination. It's just...very different.

And yet, I've always cultivated a small life - even in big cities! I like my workout & errands / work / dinner routine. Only periodically would I throw in the pleasures of a library and museum research visits, intimate SoFar concerts, vintage book hunting, thrift-store hopping, and vegan treats. Now, I've contracted my life way more here because none of those exist (unless I book a flight to Cape Town in South Africa.)

But more interestingly, my life has expanded to include my own house garden (with planted citrus trees, tomatoes, basil, hibiscus and even roses from previous owners), as well as the obvious big adventure of travel and nature in Africa. Driving up north to see elephants, giraffes and impalas, or driving east to see whales, seals, flamingos - I mean, what is this life? There are even lodges and game-drives less than an hour away from where we live! The possibility of seeing wildlife is astounding and wonderful and I know I'm lucky to be here for now.

So it's been a year to adjust to life and realize the beauty of this adventure. I still feel lost with so many parts of our life here. I still have questions for why things are done a certain way. And I sometimes feel sad when I miss the things that I had in other posts. But I know these are all parts of the dynamic culture shock waves, and I'm riding them the best that I can. Mostly, I'm just grateful when I have awestruck moments of star-gazing or giraffe-studying or even just sampling small, sweet vegan dinner parties with friends.

here's to celebrating Windhoek and our first year here,

smarti